Lonely Planet Auckland & The Bay of Islands Road Trips – A compact, clear and attractive aid to route planning

This is my review of Lonely Planet Auckland & The Bay of Islands Road Trips (Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet,Brett Atkinson,Peter Dragicevich.

This compact guide seems more concerned with presentation including photographs and maps in colour than is usually the case for Lonely Planets with their serious-minded focus on detail. The logical if slightly repetitious approach is to “drill down” from an initial overview to aid general planning, through suggested road trips covering the area as a whole (6-8 days for the Northland and Bay of Islands or 4-5 for the Coromandel Peninsula) or in different parts (2-3 days for a circular coastal tour north of Auckland or for the popular Waiheke Island an hour from Auckland). Each trip is then broken down into a sequence of destinations, all cross-referenced with the suggested trips, concluding with advice on driving in New Zealand.

It is useful to have a detachable map, although it would be better to have a pocket to slip it back into, rather than a tear-out folded sheet which can easily be mislaid or damaged.

This book seems most useful for New Zealanders themselves or those making regular visits to the country who have “done” the main tourist spots nationwide. I was actually looking for day trips out of Auckland, and would have liked a few suggestions for this. I decided that one could be 45 minutes west from Auckland to Piha with the Lion Rock and Bethells Beach, but was deterred by the “black sand” and apparent lack of a direct road route between these two coastal sites. Shakespear Regional Park on the east coast seemed a possible option but I decided on Tauharanui National Park, 1.25 hours north of Auckland. The guide book helped me to think this out, but I had to go on the internet to find a map of area, with suggested walking routes, all of which could easily have been included in this guide.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4 Stars

“Alfred Wallis (British Artists Series) by Matthew Gale – Painting from the heart

This is my review of Alfred Wallis (British Artists Series) by Matthew Gale.

A very attractively produced book about the fisherman who caught the attention of professional artists with the almost childishly simple but evocative paintings and drawings which captured a sense of being at sea with a striking use of colour and line to give a sense of movement. The text provides an engaging portrayal of his life, and the selection of works helps one to understand his appeal.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4 Stars

“DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania” – Highly Recommended

This is my review of DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania by DK Travel.

Since I read this book after visiting the Baltic States, I may be judging it with the wisdom of hindsight, but I regret not consulting it before my holiday, since its systematic, well-illustrated approach is very effective both as an aid to planning and as a step-by-step guide to “making sense” of complex historic city centres like Talinn in Estonia or Riga in Latvia. Perhaps because sites of interest often do not seem to be very clearly signposted in Baltic States, and the written languages are so different from English, there were several occasions when I struggled to work out “where to go and how to get there”, notably the Gauja National Park near Riga and the fascinating Curonian Spit accessible by ferry from Klaipeda. I nearly failed to find the Art Nouveau area in Riga (put off by roadworks on the way) and did miss the historic centre of Klaipeda (arriving late at a disappointing hotel) and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul, “further afield” from the main centre of Vilnius so requiring extra effort to get there on a hot day. If armed with this guide, with its double-page spreads to feature key buildings and detailed maps of specific areas of interest I would not have made any of the above errors and been spared a good deal of frustration.

This book provides an excellent synthesis of useful information, based on sound knowledge of the area. The opening section suggests 14 day itineraries for each country, from which one can pick a shorter version e.g. the 3-4 days I spent in each one. Background history is covered concisely for each country, with an initial section which highlights the common factors for all three e.g. the influence of the Swedes and the Russians. Architectural styles, landscapes and wildlife, and religion are all covered in the same way.

The whole book, including maps, is designed to provide an accessible “at a glance” insight which is very convenient in helping one to “grasp” an overall picture, but the guide also enables one to “drill down” easily to the next level when planning a visit.

Highly recommended.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 Stars

“Middlemarch” by George Eliot – A masterpiece that stands the test of time and repays the time needed to read it.

This is my review of Middlemarch by George Eliot.

How can a book written a century-and-a-half ago still exert such a powerful addiction over modern readers who imagine themselves to be free from the conventions concerning class, race, gender and honour which so shackled C19 society? A remarkably perceptive and articulate woman who wrote as “George Eliot” to ensure she was not merely published but taken seriously at the time, Mary Ann Evans was able to enter into the minds of her characters and analyse their complex and shifting emotions so effectively that readers in any generation are able to relate to them. Admittedly some of the minor players are caricatures, such as the complacent, censorious inhabitants of Middlemarch, but the main protagonists are portrayed in such depth, both strengths and failings, that we even find ourselves feeling a twinge of sympathy for the canting hypocrite, non-conformist banker Bulstrode when he receives his final reckoning.

Culled from two separate earlier stories, the main storylines are interwoven, contrasting the fortunes of two idealistic individuals: the wealthy well-born Dorothea, filled with the earnest but unfocused desire to make a difference in the world, and the ambitious young pioneering doctor Tertius Lydgate, determined to make his mark in furthering medical knowledge. Restricted by the naivety stemming from a sheltered upbringing and a lack of education to match her intelligence, Dorothea makes the mistake of marrying a selfish pedant, whose dry-as-dust research project has run into the ground. Her gradual realisation of the hollowness of his talent and the meanness of his outlook is made all the more poignant by the appearance on the scene of Casaubon’s intelligent and attractive young relative Will Ladislaw, who could not present a greater contrast in his open-minded spontaneity. An unwise marriage is also Lydgate’s downfall, since the lovely but shallow and materialistic Rosamund is neither willing or able to support him in achieving his aims.

With its web of many well-developed, diverse characters and entertaining sub-plots, this is a kind of glorious literary soap opera, by turns humorous and poignant, set against a background of industrial and political revolution: the drives to extend the vote under the controversial Reform Act, and to develop the railways, seen as a mystifying and needless threat to civilised life by many in Middlemarch. Just occasionally, George Eliot falls prey to the prejudices of her time: anti-Semitic asides and snobbish descriptions of some low-born characters such as the “frog-faced” Joshua Rigg, bastard son of the perverse Featherstone, whose highest ambition is to use his unexpected inheritance to set himself up in the despised profession of moneychanger. Yet overall one is impressed by the sheer force of the author’s intellect, and struck by the irony that a female writer of this calibre was obliged to write under a male pseudonym.

I am not sure whether George Eliot felt required to indulge in the flowery disquisitions so popular in Victorian writing, or revelled in displaying her skill in this, but I have to admit to struggling with some of these passages, not least where words have changed in their meaning, or turns of phrase become too convoluted for our preferred sparer style. Yet most descriptions and dialogues sizzle with a sharp wit which would not seem out of place in a modern novel.

Less bleak than “The Mill on the Floss” or “Silas Marner”, “Middlemarch” deserves to be called one of the greatest English novels of the nineteenth century.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 Stars

“Middlemarch” by George Eliot – A masterpiece which has stood the test of time and repays the time needed to read it

This is my review of Middlemarch by George Eliot.

How can a book written a century-and-a-half ago still exert such a powerful addiction over modern readers who imagine themselves to be free from the conventions concerning class, race, gender and honour which so shackled C19 society? A remarkably perceptive and articulate woman who wrote as “George Eliot” to ensure she was not merely published but taken seriously at the time, Mary Ann Evans was able to enter into the minds of her characters and analyse their complex and shifting emotions so effectively that readers in any generation are able to relate to them. Admittedly some of the minor players are caricatures, such as the complacent, censorious inhabitants of Middlemarch, but the main protagonists are portrayed in such depth, both strengths and failings, that we even find ourselves feeling a twinge of sympathy for the canting hypocrite, non-conformist banker Bulstrode when he receives his final reckoning.

Culled from two separate earlier stories, the main storylines are interwoven, contrasting the fortunes of two idealistic individuals: the wealthy well-born Dorothea, filled with the earnest but unfocused desire to make a difference in the world, and the ambitious young pioneering doctor Tertius Lydgate, determined to make his mark in furthering medical knowledge. Restricted by the naivety stemming from a sheltered upbringing and a lack of education to match her intelligence, Dorothea makes the mistake of marrying a selfish pedant, whose dry-as-dust research project has run into the ground. Her gradual realisation of the hollowness of his talent and the meanness of his outlook is made all the more poignant by the appearance on the scene of Casaubon’s intelligent and attractive young relative Will Ladislaw, who could not present a greater contrast in his open-minded spontaneity. An unwise marriage is also Lydgate’s downfall, since the lovely but shallow and materialistic Rosamund is neither willing or able to support him in achieving his aims.

With its web of many well-developed, diverse characters and entertaining sub-plots, this is a kind of glorious literary soap opera, by turns humorous and poignant, set against a background of industrial and political revolution: the drives to extend the vote under the controversial Reform Act, and to develop the railways, seen as a mystifying and needless threat to civilised life by many in Middlemarch. Just occasionally, George Eliot falls prey to the prejudices of her time: anti-Semitic asides and snobbish descriptions of some low-born characters such as the “frog-faced” Joshua Rigg, bastard son of the perverse Featherstone, whose highest ambition is to use his unexpected inheritance to set himself up in the despised profession of moneychanger. Yet overall one is impressed by the sheer force of the author’s intellect, and struck by the irony that a female writer of this calibre was obliged to write under a male pseudonym.

I am not sure whether George Eliot felt required to indulge in the flowery disquisitions so popular in Victorian writing, or revelled in displaying her skill in this, but I have to admit to struggling with some of these passages, not least where words have changed in their meaning, or turns of phrase become too convoluted for our preferred sparer style. Yet most descriptions and dialogues sizzle with a sharp wit which would not seem out of place in a modern novel.

Less bleak than “The Mill on the Floss” or “Silas Marner”, “Middlemarch” deserves to be called one of the greatest English novels of the nineteenth century.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 Stars

“The Destroyers” by Christopher Bollen -Another case of more is less for poor little rich boys.

This is my review of The Destroyers by Christopher Bollen.

“The Destroyers” of the title is a reference to the childhood game played by narrator Ian and his friend Charlie, in which they vied for ever more ingenious way of extricating themselves from violent attacks by assassins in black balaclavas. Charlie seems to have carried this lust for risk combined with a sense of immunity into adult life, an ominous recipe for disaster as he tries to establish a business of his own, separate from the construction empire of his ruthless Greek-Cypriot father.

Emotionally scarred by the sense of his father’s rejection in setting up home with a new wife and more favoured children, Ian has rejected capitalism to the extent of trying to side with the exploited workers of his father’s international babyfood company. Penniless, he seeks out Charlie (with whom he has had no contact for eight years!) on the island of Patmos, a photogenic setting for a thriller, in the hopes of obtaining some much-needed cash, only to find himself caught up in a sinister mystery. Less extrovert, with apparently good intentions which only confirm the old adage by paving the way to his personal hell, is Ian a reliable narrator, or will he prove to be the real villain of the piece?

Christopher Bollen may have overreached himself in his ambition. A self-styled fan of Agatha Christie, he clearly aims to achieve not only a page-turning crime mystery, but also an original literary style, analysis of human relationships and sharp social comment in a topical political context, in this case a Greece burdened with austerity, with Patmos a bizarre blend of worldly Orthodox priests, affluent tourists, stoned evangelising hippy Christians and desperate Syrian refugees floating in on leaky boats.

For me, Bollen has only partly succeeded. From the outset, I was alternately dazzled and irritated by the unusual metaphors and unexpected choice of adjectives, which often create an overly contrived, even jarring effect. For instance, writing of a hangover: “Overnight, my mouth has transformed into a shrivelled diving board slung over a septic pool. The grim condominium complex that surrounds it – i.e., the rest of my head- is experiencing a rash of small electrical fires”. On reflection, this may be a string of brilliant analogies, but page after page of pumped up creativity can make for an exhausting read.

Although I never cared much about the characters, they are well-developed, often through some strong dialogue, the suitably twisty plot has been carefully constructed, but despite a few dramatic scenes, some of which are quite implausible, it often drags, and the conclusion, too bent on tying up loose ends, seems rushed and disappointing to the extent of seeming a bit of a “cop-out”. I suppose that the roller-coaster flights of fancy are a fundamental part of the author’s style, so perhaps it is the more redundant, repetitious verbiage that an editor should have honed to reduce the book by a hundred pages or so.

⭐⭐⭐ 3 Stars

“Insight Guides: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania” – Useful overall and good in parts.

This is my review of Insight Guides: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania by Insight Guides.

This well-presented guide with some beautiful illustrations which feed one’s desire to visit the Baltic states provides a readable, concise potted socio-economic, political history of the three Baltic states. I made continual reference to this book both while planning the details of a ten-day itinerary, and when visiting sites. It proved useful, but could have been improved in a few respects.

The approach is to cover each country in turn, with a map at the start of each section. It might have been helpful to have these maps as “pull-outs” grouped at the end for easier reference.

Since the three cities of Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius are likely to be the lynch-pins of a Baltic holiday, more thought could have been given to how best to guide the visitor round them. In every case, the street plan provided for the Old Town needed to be larger scale and clearer, perhaps stored in a wallet at the back which would have added to the cost but been worth it. Coverage of Tallinn was the best, perhaps because it is the smallest place, since I was able to follow the suggested itinerary, although from a different starting point and opposite direction! In Vilnius, I found it particularly hard to grasp the geography of the Old Town from the guide book, and had to make use of supplementary maps obtained from the hotel and Tourist Office. In Riga, I could have missed the Art Nouveau quarter if I had just relied on the guide, since it is in an area set apart from the main part of the Old Town. This definitely merits an extra map and identification of key houses.

Signposting in the Baltic states seems generally lacking by British tourist standards. On a visit to the Gauja National Park, I was at a loss some of the time how to proceed i.e. a clear suggested itinerary in the guide would be useful. I found my way to Turaida Castle by chance. This proved very interesting, but apart from a full-page photo, the guide book does not do it justice. Likewise, a few more practical details would be useful, such as how to get to the fascinating Curonian Spit from Klaipeda, including how best to access views of the sand dunes.

I suspect that guide books are often written by teams of people who have not actually explored in detail themselves the places described, which makes all the difference. There’s an appealing two-page spread of a farmer in rural Lithuania with his horse-drawn plough. This tells you something about an area which as a tourist you may never see, but is less useful than the location of ferry terminals or car parks.

I like the visual appeal of the book, which prompted me both to buy and retain it but perhaps “publisher’s marketing” has taken too much precedence over focus on usefulness. I admit that “Lonely Planet” guides tend to the other extreme as regards practical detail over attractiveness.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4 Stars

“Baltic Facades: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania since 1945” (Contemporary Worlds) by Aldis Purs – Sad proof that style matters

This is my review of Baltic Facades: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania since 1945 (Contemporary Worlds) by Aldis Purs.

I am sure this is a worthy study of recent historical, political and socio-economic events by a very knowledgeable author. The problem for me was that, apart from a degree of repetition and statement of the self-evident, the style is so turgid that I struggled to read it. I think the author may be writing in English as a second language in which case employment of a lively editor might have helped.

Since visiting the Baltic states has aroused my interest, I may make another attempt to read this later, since there seems to be a dearth of books on this subject.

⭐⭐⭐ 3 Stars